Everyone in my family had one, except me. Even my two year old daughter. Somehow, despite being the tech enthusiast in our home, I somehow became the only member of my family who didn’t have an iPad. After my prior iPad was handed down in anticipation of an upgrade that never materialized, I was left squinting at my iPhone while the others peered at me (mockingly, I’m sure) over their relatively large screens.
After a year-long hiatus, I’m back. When the first rumors of the 9.7″ iPad Pro emerged, I knew this would be the device that would return me to the fold. Little did I realize how different and improved an experience it would be. The simple addition of the keyboard cover and various new functions of iOS 9 transform this device into something is nearly as capable (and in some ways superior) to my laptop, but far more comfortable to carry around and use. I sit here typing at what seems to be quite close to full speed on the surprisingly good keyboard cover. It’s a bit louder than I expected, but perfectly comfortable to type on. The advantage of the keyboard cover is not only the speed of typing, but the fact that there is no software keyboard covering half the screen. The biggest surprise to me is how comfortable and stable the setup is on my lap.
iOS 9 has added many keyboard shortcuts, and holding the command key quickly reminds me of what they are. A quick swipe in from the right lets me multitask. This has been particularly useful for adding the Notes app to whatever I am working on, or for loading a miniturized version of 1Password for quickly password entry. The screen is superb, and the speedy processor makes the overall experience quite snappy. iOS could still benefit from additional keyboard shortcuts and other productivity enhancements, but it has take huge leaps from prior iterations, and I’m sure will continue to do so. I have a full-sized MacBook Pro, but there’s a efficiency and focus that comes with working on an iPad that feels more like, well, the future.
Falafel are great to make at home, because they are at their best when fresh and crispy. If I am going to make falafel, I might as well make hummus as well. It’s easy to make, lasts reasonably well, and rounds out a Middle Eastern meal. Homemade hummus is far better than store-bought, but until recently I relied on supermarket tahini. After a little research, I discovered that tahini is shockingly simple to make at home. The appeal of making a small batch just as needed instead of having a jar sit for months in my refrigerator prompted me to give it a try.
Tahini is essentially just sesame seeds that have been ground into a paste. All you need is sesame seeds and something that can grind them up. A food processor will likely do a good job, though I have found my mini model doesn’t do as good a job as my full-sized machine (which defeats the purpose, since my goal is to make a small batch. I recently picked up a Vitamix blender, and this seems tailor-made for the task. I toasted the sesame seeds in a skillet on medium heat for about 5 minutes (until they became fragagrent), stirring frequently. Once cooled, I put them in the Vitamix and quickly cranked up the speed to maximum. Because I was using only 300 g of sesame seeds in a 64-ounce container, I did need to stop and scrape down the sides frequently to ensure contact with the blades; a 32-ounce container might be a better choice for small amounts. Some recipies advocate adding oil, but I have found it unnecessary as long as you grind long enough to release the oil within the seeds.
After my disappointment with Combat Crunch’s Birthday Cake bar, I was unsure of what to expect from its companion Chocolate Cake flavor (also a “limited edition”). My concerns were misplaced. This is a far superior product. Instead of the pasty texture of Birthday Cake, Chocolate Cake has the chewy-crispy combination that is more typical of other Combat Crunch bars.
If fact, on first taste the flavor may come across as indistinguishable from other chocolate-based bars, but on subsequent tastes, the deep chocolate essence comes through. Unlike Birthday Cake, Chocolate Cake really does taste like its namesake, though admittedly a protein bar version with a texture that is not at all cake-like. Still, it is an overall enjoyable snack.
Confession: while I portray myself as a foodie, I also have a soft spot for protein bars. Yes, they’re not the same as “real” food, but there’s something intriguing about the challenge of trying to make an appealing-tasting packaged food that tries to fit within some nutritional constraints. The common elements of these bars (especially in the context of recent trends) include high protein content, low carbohydrate content, and moderately high fiber. To accomplish this, they generally rely on some sort of artificial sweetener, typically stevia or sucralose, and sugar alcohols.
Some are terrible, but a surprising number are a decent-tasting snack that can be sweet without the feelings I usually associate with sugary foods. Maybe it’s all in my head. Regardless, given the number of different varieties I try, I figured I would systematically review them.
First up is Combat Crunch. This ridiculously-named bar is one of the better-tasting lines I have tried. They tend to run sweet, are generously sized, and have a mix of textures. While many high-protein bars can be tough and chewy, Combat Crunch combines a mildly chewy component with a sweet chocolate or white chocolate coating and a some crunchy elements (hence the name). Birthday Cake flavors have been the latest rage in the protein bar market, though it’s still considered a “limited edition” flavor for Combat Crunch. The size and general appearance is similar to other bars in this line, but the taste is quite different.
It doesn’t really taste much like birthday cake to me, or any cake. A better comparison might be sugar cookie dough or cake batter – there’s a bit of an unappealing raw flavor. There’s a bit of a crunch from the colored “sprinkles” on top of the bar, but the pasty texture and odd flavoring is a step down from the other flavors in this line. It is a tolerable, but not necessarily enjoyable bar. I prefer the texture to the more taffy-like Quest bars, but the flavor on this one is off. The worst of this line.
For the past several years, I’ve eschewed boneless, skinless chicken breasts (BSCB) for their moister, more flavorful, and probably less-health cousins: boneless, skinless chicken thighs (BSCT). Though some will surely critque the absence of flavor-supplying bones and skin, the reality is that even the….BS variety requires a fair amount of preparation. Though trimmed of the large sections of fat, BSCTs have hidden pockets of chicken fat that can result in an unpleasant surprise for eaters if not removed before cooking. I have become much faster and more effective at locating and excising the culprit yellow-white blobs with kitchen shears, but working with a pile of chicken at a countertop while your hungry family glowers at you from across the kitchen is not an enjoyable way to spend a weeknight.
BSCBs offer the promise of considerably less effort. They are essentially free of internal fat stores, and the small amounts of residual surface fat are typically rendered off during cooking. The problem: chicken breast can easily become dry and stringy during cooking. While brining can help to ameliorate the situation, it detracts from the original promise of reduced prep work and the resulting meet can be a bit waterlogged. Dry brining is superior, but takes more time and, thus, planning.
Inspired by this article, I decided to try a sous vide approach with BSCB and have been amazed by the results. One or two hours at 140 degrees F (60 degrees C) results in moist, tender chicken breast that can easily serve as the centerpiece of a main dinner dish with minimal flavoring and preparation. The basic approach involves a simple dusting of kosher salt and pepper (and any other flavors that are desired), sealing in a watertight bag (e.g. with a FoodSaver), and a bath in the water tank. Following the sous vide cooking (which apparently can continue for up to four hours without ill effects, though I have not testing the limits myself), I give the chicken a quick sear in a hot pan with a bit of oil and butter. A roast under a hot broiler works as well. As BSCB tend to be a bit more domed than BSCT, I have found that it helps to pound them in a plastic bag prior to cooking, so they lay more flat in the pan, giving a greater surface area for searing,
The sous vide approach is mind-bogglingly simple. While the flavor will never be identical to BSCT, the saved labor and healthier profile has led to a marked shift in my preferred cut of chicken.
I am a heavy user of spices in all my cooking, including baking. Gingerbread, with its mixture of warming spices, is a favorite holiday treat. Gingerbread cookies typically come out hard and dry, serving more as vehicles for decoration rather than something you would want to eat. The exception are the soft, cake-like cookies that I’ve occasionally encountered through my childhood: that’s what I wanted to make.
Fortunately, it wasn’t hard to find the recipe from Cooks’ Illustrated. The original version creates a huge batch, but I’ve modified it for a small family.
With a wife and two kids, all with different tastes, it can be a challenge for me to find a dish that will please the whole family. Sometimes, I luck out and stumble across a crowd-pleaser. I had read about the popularity of the southern favorite shrimp and grits, but had never tried it myself. Though I’m generally a big fan of shrimp, I had never even tried grits before (though we had an unopened box of Quaker 5-minute grits sitting in the pantry, purchased after my wife had some at work).
After scouring the internet, it became apparent that there’s a huge range of recipes out there. Most of the grits recipes are quite rich, with butter, cheese, and/or heavy cream, usually in large quantities. The shrimp is universally cooked with bacon. I turned to my old standby, Cook’s Illustrated, and found that the companion site Cook’s Country had an interesting recipe. While it made heavy use of butter and included a shirmp-stock based gravy, it was the only recipe I came across that lacked cheese. I’m not a huge fan of overly-rich dishes, but clearly some amount of cheese was de rigueur.
Starting with the Cook’s Country version, I blended in elements from various other recipes online to hit the following goals:
- use the greater shrimp:grits ratio from the Cook’s Country version
- create a shrimp stock and gravy using the shrimp shells
- use bacon
- use milk in the grits for extra creaminess
- use cheese in the grits
- use enough butter and cheese to add richness without making the dish overly heavy
- 1 cup grits (I used Quaker 5-minute grits)
- 3 cups water
- 1 cup milk
- 2-4 ounces of grated cheddar cheese, to taste (I used 2.5 ounces – 70 g)
- 1.5 pounds large shrimp with shells
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- 3 strips of bacon (or 2 if using thick-cut bacon), cut into 1/2 inch pieces
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 2 medium cloves of garlic, pressed or minced
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- Cook the grits as instructed on the package, using milk/water combination instead of milk alone (I boiled the liquid, added grits, and simmered for 5-7 minutes until thickened. It helps to whisk grits after adding to prevent clumping.
- Add in cheese and keep warm
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Peel and devein shrimp, reserving shells
- In an nonstick pan, melt one tablespoon butter of medium heat and add shells, cooking for about 7 minutes until shells are toasty and spotted
- Add tomato paste and cook for 30 seconds, stirring
- Add about 2.5 cups of water, bring to a boil, and simmer covered for another 5 minutes
- Strain shrimp shells and liquid, saving resulting stock and discarding shells
- Wipe down pan and add bacon pieces
- Cook until crispy, then add in garlic and shrimp
- Cook for a couple minutes until edges of shrimp have are no longer translucent, but shrimp are not cooked through
- Empty shrimp and bacon into a bowl and wipe out pan
- Melt another tablespoon of butter
- Add in flour, whisking into butter and cook for about a minute until fragrant
- Whisk in shrimp stock and continue whisking until clumps dissolve
- Cook for 5-10 minutes until thickened, then add in shirmp/bacon mixture and cook for a few more minutes until shrimp are cooked through
- Add lemon juice and salt/pepper to taste
Serve the grits and ladle some shrimp and gravy on top and enjoy. I added some red pepper flakes and Tobasco for added flavor to my plate. These went great with some simply braised brussel sprouts, which cut the heaviness of the overall dish.
Note the picture above is just the shrimp and gravy. It was so good, I forgot to take a picture of the combo until I was packing up the (few) leftovers.
I continue on my whole wheat kick by trying something that seems like a compromise: 100% whole wheat bagels. The source was the same as the inspiration for my traditional bagels: Peter Reinhart. These bagels can be put together a lot faster than traditional bagels, largely because of the distinct characteristics of sprouted whole wheat. According to Reinhart, the sprouted wheat requires less time to develop flavor compared with traditional wheat.
If you look online, you’ll find a vocal group touting the health advantages of sprouted grains. I’m not sure how much truth there is to these claims, but I’m all for convenience. I ended up needing quite a bit more flour than the 510g called for in Reinhart’s recipe. His book Bread Revolution describes sprouted wheat flour as absorbing water much more readily than its unsprouted relatives, but I did not find this to be the case with my batch from Arrowhead Mills. Despite coming straight off the shelves at Whole Foods, the flour was a couple months past its listed expiration date, so this may have been a factor.
- 560 g sprouted whole wheat flour
- 1.25 teaspoons salt
- 1.25 teaspoons instant yeast
- 397 g lukewarm water
- 21 g barley malt syrup
- Mix flour, salt, and yeast in a large bowl.
- Mix water and malt syrup and pour into flour mixture
- Mix for 30-60 seconds until no dry flour remains and the dough is shaggy
- Let rest uncovered for 5 minutes, then kneed for two minutes. The dough should be smooth and only slightly tacky. I needed to add quite a bit of flour above the amount recommended by Reinhart.
- Form the dough into bagels (I used 99 g of dough per bagel), place on oil-misted parchment on a baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator overnight.
- Take the bagels out of the fridge about 1 hour before baking and preheat oven to 425 °F.
- Boil bagels for 30 seconds per side in a 0.5% lye solution (25g per 5L water).
- Bake for about 20 minutes, rotating pans halfway through if using two pans.
- Cool on a rack. Extra bagels can be frozen after they cool. I like to slice my bagels before freezing, so they can be toasted right out of the freezer.
The bagels were great, though decidedly different from non-whole wheat bagels. They had a nice sweetness to them, and the everything topping went particularly well with the whole wheat dough.
I’ve tried several varieties of pancakes, but the standard buttermilk pancake remains one of my favorites. There’s something about adding chocolate to breakfast which is irresistible. Chocolate chip pancakes are a bit of overkill for me, but chocolate pancakes seem more natural to me. It’s like a chocolate cake for breakfast. The path chosen by most online is simply to add cocoa powder to a typical pancake batter. So that’s what I did. I used a white whole wheat base for this particular recipe.
- 130 g white whole wheat flour
- 25 g sugar (2 tablespoons)
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 baking soda
- 10 g cocoa powder (2 tablespoons)
- 2 tablespoons butter, melted
- 145 g buttermilk
- 1 large egg
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- combine all dry ingredients in a bowl and whisk to combine thoroughly
- mix liquid ingredients well and add into dry ingredients, taking care not to overmix (less of an issue with a whole wheat base)
- allow to rest for 5-10 minutes
- cook pancakes for about 3 minutes per side on a 300 °F griddle
I made a few changes to my whole wheat pancake base for this recipe. I decreased the flour to 130 g to accommodate the cocoa powder, doubled the sugar, and just melted the butter instead of browning it (since I suspected the flavor would be masked by the cocoa).
I have two kinds of cocoa powder at home: regular Hershey’s unsweetened and Droste Dutch-processed. Which one to use? Why not experiment: I split the batter and half with each type. The Hershey box says that 5g is one tablespoon and Droste says that the equivalent is 1 teaspoon. I suspect one is wrong, but I just went with 5 g of each. In the dry state, the Droste (left) yielded a darker mix:
Interestingly, once I added the liquid, the Hershey’s batter (below) ended up darker.
On the griddle, they were almost indistinguishable. The Droste pancakes (left in the image below and at the top of the post) rose a bit higher. I suspect this was because it’s more alkaline and reacted more with the acidic buttermilk.
The pancakes were (of course) quite good, but next time I’ll probably increase the cocoa to boost the chocolate flavor or add some instant espresso. I couldn’t really detect much difference between the two cocoas, so it doesn’t matter which one you use. The Droste yielded slightly fluffier pancakes, but I suspect the same could be achieved by increasing the baking soda.
I’ve stuck with my perfect pancake recipe for several years, but there’s always room for improvement. I’ve recently been experiment with using white whole wheat flour. It’s easier to adapt to white flour recipe than regular (“red”) whole wheat, but has the same general characteristics and potential health advantages.
When it comes to pancakes, I’m not willing to sacrifice the product for nebulous health benefits, but it turns out that whole wheat actually works extremely well in pancake batter. The ability of whole wheat to interfere with gluten development, a disadvantage in many breads, helps keep pancake tender and fluffy. A little more liquid is needed, and the batter ends up a bit thicker and harder to manage, but the results are great. I also find that using browned butter helps add another dimension to the flavor.
- 140 g white whole wheat flour
- 1 tablespoon (12.5 g) sugar
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
- 245 g buttermilk (about 1 cup)
- 1 large egg
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- Combine dry ingredients in a bowl an whisk together
- Mix buttermilk and egg together
- Melt butter in a small pan under medium-low heat until small brown flecks appear, then transfer to a bowl to cool slightly
- Add butter into buttermilk-egg mixture. If the butter is still warm, stir the mixture briskly while adding the butter slowly
- Add vanilla to the liquid
- Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir or whisk until combined, taking care not to overmix. The batter will be thick.
- Allow the batter to rest for 5-10 minutes, then cook for about 2-3 minutes per side on a 300 °F griddle.
I’ve been preferring this to the white flour version. It feels a bit more substantial. Despite the whole wheat flour, these cook up light and fluffy.